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On the Friday night the champagne weekend continued.

champagne007 (kopia)

FRIDAY NIGHT

FIRST FLIGHT: Dom Ruinart 1988 Magnum vs Deutz BdB 1982 Magnum

RUINART ‘DOM RUINART’ 1988 by the magnum | 100CH | 96(97) Points

TASTINGNOTE ‘No note yet’

DUETZ ‘BLANC de BLANCS’ 1982 by the magnum | 100CH | 94(94) Points

TASTINGNOTE ‘Tranquil Blanc de Blancs with an underlying sweet, evolved fruit. Deutz Blanc de Blancs is always easily placed in blind tastings: the vintage character plays a subordinate roll to the dominant house-style. Incredibly creamy and delicious in a magnum.’

SECOND FLIGHT: Ruinart NV from the 50s Magnum vs Lanson NV from the 50s Magnum

RUINART ‘R de RUINART from the 50s’ by the magnum | 48PN 5PM 47CH | 81(86) Points

TASTINGNOTE ‘The high proportion of Chardonnay makes Ruinart a storable non-vintage champagne which becomes delightfully toasty after a few years. However, when it comes to direct consumption, it’s hardly exciting, with its weak bread tone and hint of citrus aromas in a somewhat sharp taste. More reliable lately. Old bottles are nothing to surch for. Very often a bit murky and unsophisticated.’

LANSON ‘BLACK LABEL from the 50s’ by the magnum | 50PN 17PM 33CH | 66(84) Points

TASTINGNOTE ‘Lanson Black Label is one of the most famous champagnes despite its relentless hardness. At Lanson the malolactic fermentation is avoided, which leads to sharp, thorny wines when the body and extract are missing. The wine ages very well in fact, but then one has to be in possession of a substantial portion of patience. I have drunk a Black Label from the 20s that was magnificent.’

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THIRD FLIGHT: Bollinger 1979 Magnum vs Krug 1979 Magnum

BOLLINGER ‘MILLÉSIME’ 1979 by the magnum | 70PN 30CH | 95(95) Points

TASTINGNOTE ‘Elegant and nutty with a much weaker body, but better fruit than the R. D. from the same vintage. Very mature now. Wonderfully austere in magnum (96 points).’ 

KRUG ‘MILLÉSIME’ 1979 by the magnum | 36PN 28PM 36CH | 97(97) Points

TASTINGNOTE ‘Although this wine will probably live long, it will never be better than it was in 1990. Then there was a life and a glass development that was an unmatchable pleasure. First a closed but top-class nose, which opened up after ten minutes into a Montrachet-like depth of the loveliest of wine aromas. It has a classically well-balanced structure, with a long, nutty aftertaste that is close to perfection. Later bottles have shown an even greater richness of taste, but some of the elegance has been lost. The most recent magnum in Vilnius had a bouquet of Clos du Mesnil (98 points).’

FORTH FLIGHT: Roederer 1979 jeroboam

LOUIS ROEDERER ‘MILLÉSIME’ 1979 by the jeroboam | 66PN 34CH | 96(96) Points

TASTINGNOTE ‘This wine is perhaps the clearest example I can give of how Champagne ages best in magnums. In magnum, this ’79 has an exotic nose of orchids and honeysuckle, along with several jars of roasted coffee. The taste is a sensual experience, with a richness reminiscent of hazelnut-filled milk chocolate. Long and classical. In the normal-sized bottles, the dosage seems a bit high and the wine exudes treacle, windfall fruit, almonds, and hazelnut.’
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FIFTH FLIGHT: Taittinger Comtes de Champagne 1979 Magnum

TAITTINGER ‘COMTES de CHAMPAGNE’ 1979 by the magnum | 100CH | 98(98) Points

TASTINGNOTE ‘Unmistakable style, with refreshing, creamy, citrus and butter-toffee notes. Extremely easy to drink and terrifically enjoyable. A wonderful perfume of white flowers and crystal-clear nut taste. Sensational improvement in quality at the end of the previous century. Michel Dovaz’s favorite at the Millennium Tasting. Getting more and more similar to the great 76.’
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