Björnstierne was invited by the Swedish importer to taste the new vintages of La Grande Année and la Grande Année Rosé at Pontus! in Stockholm.
BOLLINGER ‘SPÉCIAL CUVÉE | 2008 base | 60PN 15 PM 25CH | SBnr 7418 | 395 sek | TASTINGNOTE ‘Yet again, one of my absolute favorites among nonvintage Champagnes. Since the beginning of the 1990s the wine has only been four years old when it enters the market and is vinified in steel vats. Even so, it’s fascinating to see how much 12 percent old reserve wines, vinified in oak barrels and stored in magnums, do to lift the product. The oakish, smoky, and deep Bollinger style develops after a couple of years in the bottle.’ 82(88) RJ POINTS
BOLLINGER ‘ROSÉ’ | 2007 base | 70PN 10PM 20CH | SBnr 7755 | 495 sek | TASTINGNOTE ‘They have spiced the white standard champagne with a little delicious red wine from the most famous locality at Aÿ. The result is a modern and charmingly easy-to-drink, elegant rosé that can at first glance be mistaken for rosé wines from less personal houses. When aired, Bollinger’s famous nutty and apple-influenced complexity appears, reminding one that this is not any old nightclub bubbly but rather an excellent gastronomic wine.’ 83(87) RJ POINTS
BOLLINGER ‘LA GRANDE ANNÉE’ 2004 | disgorged July’12 | 60PN 40CH | SBnr 7579 | 849 sek | TASTINGNOTE ‘Bollinger makes the heaviest and richest Champagne of all the Champagne houses. Their wines have always smoky and has a fragrant hazelnut complexity that is hard to beat. The vintage Champagnes is among the best in the area. Since the year 1990 made vintage wines from Bollinger is a little fruitier and more peach scented in the style with slightly less pronounced smokiness and nuttiness. I was always more impressed initially by the previous style, but it feels like the differences even out over time’ 90(92) Björnstierne POINTS
BOLLINGER ‘LA GRANDE ANNÉE’ 2002 | disgorged July’12 | 60PN 40CH | SBnr 7579 | 849 sek | TASTINGNOTE ‘Since the year 1990 made vintage wines from Bollinger in a little fruitier more persikodoftande style with slightly less pronounced smokiness and nuttiness. I was always more impressed initially by the previous style, but it feels like the differences even out over time. 2002 is very fruity and a little slippery at the moment, but I am convinced that the fruitiness will be low, and that we will see a deeper beauty over time.’ 93(95) RJ POINTS
BOLLINGER ‘LA GRANDE ANNÉE ROSÉ’ 2004 | 70PN 30CH | SBnr 91289 | 1 1 95 sek | TASTINGNOTE ‘7-8 percent still red wine of Pinot Noir from the vineyard La Côte aux Enfants was added before the second fermentation took place before bottlling. The wine was matured on its lees for at least six years, which is significantly longer than the minimum of three years for a vintage Champagne. During this process, real stoppers was used in the bottles, in contrast to the practice of “crown caps”. This is considered giving greater protection against oxidation. After disgorgement, which happens manually a very scarce dosage (the conventional addition of sugar) of 7-9 g / l, which perhaps gives the driest and most powerful rosé Champagne on the market. A little young berry notes from the added red wine disturb a little bt at the moment. Otherwise, the wine is well-rounded creamy, harmonious with classic Burgundian Pinot smoky and nutty Bollinger touch.’ 90(93) RJ POINTS
BOLLINGER ‘VIEILLES VIGNES FRANCAISES’ 2004 | 100PN | Premier at 30th of May at Systembolaget – SBnr 77862 | 4 990 sek | TASTINGNOTE ‘The Vintage Champagnes from Bollinger is among the best in the area, but the question is whether or not it’s amazing and rare wine Vieilles Vignes Françaises, made from grapes from ungrafted Pinot vines, reach even greater heights. Champagne’s biggest rarity is made from grapes from ungrafted prephylloxera-vines in Aÿ and Bouzy. Only 6-7 gram dosage is added. No other Champagne can show such wealth. Undeveloped compact scent. Mineral, cold and deep, filled with exciting flavors. Yogurt that can be found in some red Burgundies, here is a very significant feature. From the beginning, this Champagne is nearly perfect with its deep golden color, wonderfully mature and nuanced bouquet and shocking attack.
Think that blanc de noirs can be so elegant and versatile surprised! Just as expected, a tremendous wine experience! The wine belongs to the few who behave with such natural poise that comments and comparisons feels superfluous … Fantastic long and homogeneous already a colossal dense fruit spanning between pears to figs. Tempting to enjoy now, and it’s not a crime, but if you behave yourself you should probably wait until the wine’s 20 th birthday before you meet again when the truffle complexity are fully developed.’ 93(96) Björnstierne POINTS
Only 36 bottles finds it’s way to Sweden of rarity. 20 bottles will be launched at Systembolaget the 30 May.
CHAMPAGNE & FOOD? THE MENU @ PONTUS!