Sneaked by Mean Coffee Bar at Vasagatan to taste some bubbles from old time favorite David Lèclapart.
RICHARD ON DAVID LÉCLAPART David Léclapart is an autodidact, a biodynamic artist who works according to the Selosse Method and the teachings of Steiner. His conviction that loving handling always pays is hard to object to when one sees what masterpieces he creates in harmony with nature. His tinder-dry, refreshing wines have a bite and sting like few others while at the same time they are crystal clear, pure and silkily mellow. He hates sulphur and therefore he allows malolactic fermentation to occur naturally. Dosage is something he would absolutely never use. The wines, from three hectares at Trépail, are stored in oak barrels for fifteen months, with the exception of the Amateur, and are never filtered. The wines are always from one vintage (1999 the first), but to discover which one has to look at the figures on the back of the bottle. The grape varieties are never mixed but the grape is given all the space as it needs to shine brilliantly on its own. It is a loving pleasure to follow David’s journey to the top.
DAVID LÉCLAPART ‘L’AMATEUR’ 2007 | 100CH | 349 sek | RJ TASTING NOTE ‘ The Amateur is a blend from 6 situations in the village. During my interesting recordings of a TV-show in Norway, I became familiar with apple cider producers in Hardanger. This champagne smells amazing, like a clean Gravensteiner. Incredibly beautiful fresh and highly aromatic fragrance reminiscent of the chilly autumn and clean, clear air. Dryness is as usual not a problem. My only question mark is that it is impossible to imagine the development of such a personal and light delicious wine. Somewhat simpler than the other wines from this super-grower. The organic vinification is clearly noticeable as is the lack of sugar. Blind, I would probably have guessed at Larmandier-Bernier Vertus Terroir. The dryness is striking, but still not disturbing. The apple fruitiness is massive, but the soil is not of the same class as the most elegant from Côte des Blancs. No oak in this wine.’ RJ points 86(90)
DAVID LÉCLAPART ‘L’ARTISTE’ 2005 | 100CH | 595 sek | RJ TASTING NOTE ‘The Artiste is a blend of Billy and Côte des Prés. Brilliant vinification and Selosse influence. A wonderfully silky caress that makes the toughest critic smile in a friendly manner. A many-facetted bouquet with a muffled element of the usual organic dwarf banana tone in the background. Before me are ranged lilac, lime blossom, orange, hawthorn and William pear. A wine that makes one see inner visions of early summer landscapes in the middle of winter. What will happen if we leave these rare wines in a forgotten corner of the cellar for a few years? RJ points 82(88)
DAVID LÉCLAPART ‘L’APÔTRE’ 2005 | 100CH | 855 sek | RJ TASTING NOTE ‘The prestige wine Apôtre comes from La Pierre St Martin, a vineyard that was planted by David’s grandfather in 1946. An un-dosaged wine from old vines. It feels less evolved, drier, slightly more metallic, and purer than Artiste—strangely enough. Old vines usually give a sweeter and rounder impression. Store and see.’ RJ points 93(96)
For the Swedish market. Viner kan köpas genom Franska Vinlistan.