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BJÖRNSTIERNE Yesterday I took my family to celebrate my wife’s birthday at the renowned Swedish restaurant Oaxen Slip & Krog. It was on a Sunday and the Fine dining part ‘Krog’ was closed (open Tuesdays trough Saturdays) We were seated in the bistrolike part called ‘Slip’. I’ve been in love with the gastronomy of Magnus & Agneta Green since the first visit when the restaurant was located on the island of Oaxen, about 40 minutes drive from Stockholm in Södermanland. Since this spring it’s located on the island of Djurgården in the center of our beautiful capital of Sweden. The area where Oaxen is now located used to be a military area and were quite rough and dirty to be honest. But now the area has been cleaned up (100 000 tonnes of rubish has be taken away!).

Oaxen at night

photo from oaxen.com

We started with some snacks with the Champagne; Oysters with vinaigrette or au gratin – Chopped egg with lumpfish roe, Dijon mustard, sour cream & tarragon with Dahlbergs’ flat bread –  Deep-fried cod with tartar mayonnaise  – Roasted ox marrow with Oaxen bacon, parsley & lemon.

After that we opted for some starters; Roasted beets with goats’ chevre and capers vinaigrette – Tartar of topside with Dijon mayonnaise, sour cream & sourdough croutons.

Maincourses; Grilled flank steak with vinaigrette of spring onion, capers & lemon – Steamed bun with pulled pork, shredded greens & Tre kockar BBQ sauce – Crispy pork belly with celeriac pure, apple & hazelnuts.

Oaxen the wine cellar

photo from oaxen.com

The verdict? The ambiance is great, the view to die for, the service attentive and personal without being disturbing, the food heavenly clean and crisp (Sweden style or should I say Magnus Ek style….). To be honest, when my taxi arrived, I didn’t want to leave, I could have stayed over and slept on the pier overlooking the inner archipelago of Stockholm,  crawling in the the beautiful dining room for some breakfast, lunch or whatever … I’ll be back! Count on it!

Oaxen glasses

photo from oaxen.com

Before heading to the restaurant though we indulged ourselves to a grand bottle of Champagne that we’ve been loving for years …

IN THE GLASS? LARMANDIER-BERNIER ‘VIEILLES VIGNES de CRAMANT’ 1990

Vertus | Champagne | Frankrike | Larmandier-Bernier | Swedish importer: Winetrade |100CH | RJpoints 90(93)

RJ ON LARMANDIER-BERNIER The firm owns 9.5 hectares at Bergères-lès-Vertus, Chouilly, Cramant, and Vertus. Pierre Larmandier makes some of the purest Chardonnay Champagnes around today. The family has owned a few hectares of extremely old Chardonnay vines at Cramant for a long time, and during the 1990 harvest Pierre decided to make a select Champagne exclusively from these eighty-year-old vines. The result is a Champagne that will be legendary. Nowadays vinification is 100% biodynamic. All his wines gain from keeping for ten years – or maybe even longer in a good cellar! The 2006 Vieilles Vignes Cramant has been of the finest and ultra-sophisticated sort from the start. Perhaps rather too much stone and banana when one approaches it in the loveliness of its youth. But anyhow an unmistakeable creaminess and a classic, qualitatively high level throughout the entire experience.

RJ TASTINGNOTE ‘I believe that all the great wines in the world have something in common: a superior intensity in the nose that comes from their unique soil. This Cramant Champagne is such a wine. The nose is incredibly elusive, with an explosive, indescribable floweriness. Even though it is a little shy now, it’s lying there under the surface, waiting to explode in all its beauty. The flavor is extremely long, tight, and focused. Buy all the bottles you can get your hands on and put them away for your grandchildren! Probably one of the best wines of the vintage.’

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One thought on “Oaxen & Larmandier-Bernier

  1. Pingback: Côtes du Rhône @ Oaxen Slip & Krog | Björnstierne Antonson | DinVinguide.se

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