It’s so fun to rediscover old love! This week I had the opportunity to come back to it in the version of sweet Louise … with the vintage 2002! A cuvée prestige that I drank a lot of in the mid and late 90s, but I lost a little contact with it. Pommery was represented on many wine lists in Stockholm. Jan Stenbeck invited Stockholm residents to a grand bubbly party at the Millennium: Pommery ‘Brut Royale’ was the obvious choice. At the royal wedding between Victoria and Daniel the guests drank Pommery ‘Grand Cru Millésime’ 2000. King Carl-Gustav and his Silvia also served Pommery at their Royal wedding in 1976. Recently Pommery changed importer on the Swedish market to Gullberg by Stockwine.
RJ ON POMMERY In 1856 Pommery & Greno was founded after having been known as Dubois-Gosset for the previous twenty years. The firm established a sales channel to the English as early as the nineteenth century, and were pioneers with their dry Champagne—quite without dosage. The Marquise de Polignac was one of the first owners, and one of her direct descendants, Prince Alain de Polignac, was for a long time the man in charge of assembling the cuvées. Prince Alain is a fascinating man who, better than any other winemaker, can describe the philosophy behind his winemaking art. In 1990, Pommery was one of those firms that ended up as part of the powerful Moët-Hennessy Group, and in 2002 Vranken took over. But the house-style remains intact, thanks to Thierry Gasco, who was trained by the prince.
Pommery is among the firms that own the most land in the grand cru villages, but less well known is the fact that their locations within the area are not always the best. Besides Pommery’s own grapes, 70 percent of their supply comes from throughout Champagne, and they are vinified in modern style. Pommery is undoubtably a great name in historical terms. The house-style is made up of dry, restrained, pure champagnes with young fruit and an unmistakable steeliness that takes many years to round off.
RJ ON CUVÉE LOUISE The cuvée de prestige, Louise Pommery, doesn’t fit that description, but instead is often too soft and polished to compete with the top wines of its competitors. I have been amazed time and again by the greatness of the older vintages from Pommery. Only recently I bought a large number of bottles dating from 1911 to 1979, which have lain untouched since birth in the dark recesses of Champagne. Every bottle that I’ve opened has been fantastic. The modern portfolio is also impressive and aristocratic. The vintage wine is the best wine for the cellar. Magnums of the fantastic 96 is still around and 2004 is sublime.
POMMERY ‘CUVÉE LOUISE’ 2002 | Epernay | Champagne | Frankrike | Pommery | 40PN 60CH | importer: Gullberg by Stockwine | SBnr 77041 (1999) | SBpris 1 290 sek | TASTING NOTE ‘Cuvée Louise made it’s debute with the 1979. The firm’s prestige champagne is always made in a softer, more refined style than vintage wine. The 2002 has an exceptionally soft and luxurious mousse. The aroma is typical of Louise Pommery with notes of mature Brie de Meaux-elements combined with vanilla, freshly baked bread and orange. Tested next to the this vintage seems like a young racing horse headed straight forward with crazy energy. Bright young color, incredibly beautiful mousse, creamy texture and elegant sophisticated fruit. An incredibly soft and easy to drink champagne. Handsome and stylish. Medium-bodied and very soft and charming house style. Maximum seductive in magnum!’ RJpoints 92(95)
CHAMPAGNE POMMERY IN THE CHAMPAGNE BAR? Fridays 18th & 25th of October creative head sommelier Björnstiertne will serve the following champagnes by the glass:
POMMERY ‘BRUT ROYALE’ | Epernay | Champagne | Frankrike | Pommery | 35PN 35PM 40CH | importer: Gullberg by Stockwine | SBnr 7590 | SBpris 359 sek | TASTING NOTE ‘A very clean and elegant nonvintage made from high-class grapes. The aroma is discreet and bready with an undertone of sun-dried sheets. The taste is well balanced, with a fine fruitiness reminiscent of kiwi and melon. Ages in style.‘ RJpoints 75(82)
POMMERY ‘WINTERTIME BLANC DE NOIRS’ | Epernay | Champagne | Frankrike | Pommery | 100PN | importer: Gullberg by Stockwine | Restaurangsortimentet | pris 499 sek | TASTING NOTE ‘A completely new wine from Pommery that seems very promising. This seems to me to be a successful combination of the firm’s stringent and apple-like house-style, and the mature, generous fullness of the Pinot grapes. The fruit, which borders upon currant, is backed up by smoky and bready tones. With age these wines take on a delightful, gun-smoky characteristic.Even younger samples like the 2008 base is magnificent.‘ RJpoints 87(90)
POMMERY ‘GRANC CRU MILLÉSIME’ 2005 | Epernay | Champagne | Frankrike | Pommery | 50PN 50CH | importer: Gullberg by Stockwine | SBnr 76327 | SBpris 749 sek | TASTING NOTE ‘An extremely crowd-pleasing vintage with all the sweet spectrum that breaths chocolate, vanilla and pineapple oriented fruit. Sure, usually Pommery shines like the brightest when their sense of style is backed up by additional solar heat! But this time I had wished that Monsieur Gasco had been his ascetic incur more loyal and fought against the naturally voluptuous generosity for future enjoyment.’ RJpoints 84(87)
POMMERY ‘BRUT ROSÉ’ | Epernay | Champagne | Frankrike | Pommery | 60PN 15PM 25CH | importer: Gullberg by Stockwine | SBnr 7704 | SBpris 399 sek | TASTING NOTE ‘I must admit that I am very impressed and charmed by this ingenious concept of season as created by Pommery. It was autumn when I first poked my nose into a glass of this wine. In a couple of seconds I had been carried away to a fresh, young, light green spring grove resplendent with chlorophyll. There is an uplifting, frisky vitality in this wine that goes straight to the pituitary gland. The colour is light, and the sensation is fruitily young while being at the same time mellow and creamy.‘ RJpoints 81(85)
And of course the sublime ‘Cuvée Louise’ 2002 … IN THE SPEAKERS? Wankelmut & Emma Louise – ‘My Head Is A Jungle’