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The Thursday tradition of the autumn in Sthlm is to meet up with members of the Richard Juhlin Champagne Club and to share some lovely bubbles. We were 14 people that set out to taste some Champagnes that we have bought at Champagen auctions in Sweden. The champagnes we’re:

VILMART & CIE ‘CUVÉE CRÉATION 111° MILLENAIRE’ 1992 | Rilly-la-Montagne | Champagne | France | Vilmart & Cie  | 20PN 80CH  | TASTING NOTE ‘VINTAGE ★★★ The vines are more than 50 years old. 10 months in 228 litre-barrels. A transparent bottle, small barrels, but younger vines. Surprisingly oxidative and miles from Couer de Cuvée from this vintage. A rich, rustic flavour of honey, toffee, leather and fallen fruit.’  RJpoints 78(78)

POL ROGER ‘MILLÉSIME’ 1990 by the magnum | Epernay | Champagne | France | Pol Roger  | 60PN 40CH  | TASTING NOTE ‘VINATGE ★★★★★ Pol Roger’s vintage Champagne always ages well. Pol Roger in a nutshell. Sophisticated and utterly charming. Fruity, creamy, balanced, and long.’ RJpoints 93(94)

HENRIOT ‘CUVÉE des ENCHANTELEURS’ 1989 | Reims | Champagne | France | Henriot  | 45PN 55CH  | TASTING NOTE ‘VINTAGE  ★★★ Tasted newly disgorged before the wine had gone onto the market. That’s why it was not so strange to detect a slightly restrained, unevolved characteristic about this—in all other ways—classic, house-typical Champagne. Vanilla, peach, lemon, rolls, bread, and mineral clothed in a fat, balanced exterior. Beautiful and developable. Highly reminiscent of Henriot’s delightful ’76s.’ RJpoints 94(94)

PIHILIPPONNAT ‘CLOS des GOISSES’ 1982 | Mareuil-sûr-Aÿ | Champagne | France | Philipponnat  | 70PN 30CH  | price 500€ | TASTING NOTE ‘VINTAGE ★★★★  Dégorgerad nov’03, 10 år sûr-lie. Dosage 4.5g/l. The first times I tasted the ’82 I doubted the greatness of this vineyard’s location, as the wine was floral and shy for so many years before unfolding its peacock tail of tastes. At a large horizontal tasting of the twenty best ’82s, Clos des Goisses and Salon stood out as the least evolved wines. The long aftertaste was, however, prominent from the beginning. I’m already longing for the next bottle in order to see if it has begun to develop its lovely chocolate style. The latest one was like a baby.’ RJpoints 95(95)

LANSON ‘BRUT MILLÉSIME’ 1976 by the magnum  | Reims | Champagne | France | Lanson  | 20PN 80CH  | TASTING NOTE ‘VINTAGE ★★★ Relatively mature color, incredibly toasty, almost burned character. Impressive with its sea tones, crême brûlée, liquorice, brioche and also nowadays passionfruit and orange blossom. A marvellous wine that illustrates the wonderful development curve of the wines from 1976, which is better than most.’ RJpoints 94(94)

DEUTZ ‘CUVÉE WILLIAM DEUTZ’ 1999  | Aÿ | Champagne | France | Deutz  | 55PN 10PM 35CH  | TASTING NOTE ‘VINTAGE ★★★ It is early days still in the life of this young wine. The fruity loveliness and complexity in this closed bud of beauty are however quite unmistakeable. Yet another magnificent William with which to gild the future.’ RJpoints 90(94)

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